We usually avoid big cities, but this time we decided to give Tbilisi a chance. The Georgian capital turned out to be far more layered and interesting than we expected. We started with the Georgian National Museum, whose exhibitions reach far beyond the history of the modern state. The collections cover prehistoric cultures of the Caucasus, ancient kingdoms like Colchis and Iberia, and the long, turbulent centuries of Persian, Arab, Mongol and Russian influence. It’s one of those museums where you suddenly realise how deep and old the roots of this region truly are.

From there we explored the city itself. We visited the iconic Mother of Georgia (Kartlis Deda), a modern symbol of the nation: a sword in one hand for enemies, a bowl of wine in the other for friends. We also visited Chronicles of Georgia, a massive stone complex overlooking the lake, built by Zurab Tsereteli. It tells the story of Georgian kings, saints and legends in a style that feels part temple, part Soviet-era fantasy.

We wandered through the entire Old Town, with its narrow streets, wooden balconies and sulphur bathhouses that gave Tbilisi its name (“warm place”). We took the cable car up to the hill above the city and later visited the old amusement park Mtatsminda, once one of the most important leisure spots in Soviet Georgia. Today it’s a mix of nostalgia, slightly worn rides and fantastic views over the whole city.

Our accommodation added its own flavour to the experience: a nice apartment hidden behind a terrible staircase and an elevator that worked… on coins. The neighbourhood wasn’t the most pleasant, but everything turned out fine and gave us another glimpse into the everyday life of the city.

Tbilisi surprised us. Chaotic, loud, historic, modern, friendly and rough around the edges – a city that rewards curiosity and patience, even for people who usually prefer mountains over capitals.

Map of this trip:

Trip Photos: