We prepared ourselves for a difficult drive, expecting rough terrain and challenges at every turn, but the Georgian Military Road surprised us. It turned out to be almost effortless – smooth, scenic, and absolutely stunning. What made it even better was the weather: on the way up we had clouds and light rain, muted colors and misty mountains, while the next day offered bright skies and warm sun. Driving the same road twice felt like travelling two completely different routes.

Historically, this route is one of the oldest and most important passages through the Caucasus Mountains. It has been used since antiquity by traders, armies and caravans, but it became truly famous in the 19th century when the Russian Empire rebuilt it as a strategic military artery connecting Tbilisi with Vladikavkaz. Even today, it remains the main road linking Georgia with Russia — a mix of dramatic landscapes, engineering challenges and centuries of geopolitical history.

Along the way we stopped at the Georgian–Russian Friendship Monument, perched on a high cliff above the Gudauri valley. Built in 1983 to celebrate “friendship” between the two nations, it’s a huge circular structure decorated with colorful Soviet mosaics depicting Georgian kings, Russian folklore and scenes from history. Whatever one thinks about the politics behind it, the location is undeniably spectacular – a balcony hanging over a vast mountain amphitheatre.

Right before the border we decided to bypass the tunnel – simply because we could – and it was absolutely worth it. The detour led us along a wild stretch of road carved into the mountainside, with a roaring river below us, washing away pieces of the track and drowning out every other sound. The views were breathtaking, and for a long moment it was just us, alone on the road, surrounded by raw nature.

Our Opel seemed to awaken its inner Mitsubishi Delica spirit, the most popular vehicle among locals in these regions. It climbed confidently over bumps, stones and serpentine curves, taking us all the way up to the hilltop Gergeti Trinity Church perched at 2170 m and framed by the massive peak of Mount Kazbek. The first visit was in rain and fog, but after a delicious dinner and settling into our accommodation, we decided to return for sunset — and it was absolutely the right choice. Golden light, dramatic clouds, and the mountains glowing in the evening sun.

And then we met the sweetest puppy of the entire trip – fluffy like a little sheep, sturdy legs, beautiful colors, the kind of dog you instantly want to hug and adopt. But even he couldn’t distract us from the scenery for a long time. The views were simply incredible. One of those rare places where you just stop, breathe, and say: wow.

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